First Came the Jacket

Yes, I have a thing for jackets. I can't resist buying them for 99 cents and I can play with new techniques without having to put any work into the construction. At this price, who cares if I screw it up? This tweedy number wasn't anything special considering it was an Apt 9 brand from Kohls and originally had a detachable faux fur collar that wasn't on the jacket when I found it at thrift. The back had to be taken in as it was 18" across and my girl is 15" (including ease) so I started at the shoulders and tapered a dart into a V, creating a pleat below the waist.

Before work began I found this fantastic matching plum denim at JoAnns on clearance for $4 for the skirt and wanted to incorporate this fabric into the jacket.

I played with ways to attach it to the sleeves to make them longer (a common alteration for the long-arm people) and ended up unpicking the lining and attaching the denim to the lining so it hangs past the sleeve. It worked pretty well and added a thread chain to keep it from twisting.

I had remembered a technique from an older issue of Threads about trimming edges with narrow strips of loosely woven fabric and here I used a 1/2" bias strip and teased the edges with a brush. This worked well so I added 2 rows of strips to the sleeve edges to tie the whole thing together. Also, I added buttons to the sleeve and since they were trimmed in gold, the button on the back bow is also gold. The button on the front was a self-fabic button which I usually find attractive but in this case it was too bland so replaced it with one that provided some contrast.

Ralph Gets a 2nd Chance

I love tailored jackets but when I can buy this creme raw silk designer model for 99 cents at the thrift store it hardly seems worth my time to labor over a jacket from scratch.

This is the "before" picture after being tossed in the washer with a capful of shampoo. Yes, I know the tag said "dry clean only" but I don't like the chemicals in that process so I stick to soap and water.

The buttons are nothing special but I left them on and well, it's lacking in details. The extra watch pocket doesn't really add much. In fact all the pockets were still sewed shut so I doubt the original owner wore it much.

This is a size 6 petite and while the sleeves are way too short, the jacket body is a normal length.

I needed to add 4" to the sleeves because DD has long arms like me. I'm always buying silly doilies. I don't know why exactly because I rarely use them but the crocheted squares seemed just right. They needed to be a litte wider so I blocked them with steam before whip stitching them together. For balance, I hand stitched one to each shoulder creating the appearance of a yoke. I wanted a really soft ribbon to weave through the top edge of the crochet and found this Moda Dea ribbon yarn to be nice match.

A little hand stitching with embroidery floss around the front edge and lapel pulls it all together.

Suit Up

I know you've done it. There was a misalignment of the planets and you bought some disgusting fabric. Years later you discover this fabric and while you really want to throw it out, your frugal and environmentally correct self won't allow it. Such is the case with The Suit. In the picture, it looks OK but really it's a cheesy poly knit. This is a test to check the fit and once that is accomplished I hope to unload it to a charity that gives business clothes to women starting new jobs. The only thing outstanding about this suit is the velvet collar that has free motion quilting because yours truly forgot the important step of interfacing. The skirt is Simplicity 4885 and the jacket is McCalls 5058. Next time I'll add a back seam to the skirt and insert the zipper there instead of the side. Also, I think the back seam is slimming even though The Girl is thin already and doesn't need slimming features.
Do those sleeves look way too long? Not for the long armed women in this family! Yep, long legs too. No hate mail, please.

Baby, It's Cold Outside

I've never made a coat before but it's like making a jacket, only longer. It's actually black poly suede lightened up with photo retouch. I actually don't like polyester but I hate dry cleaning more. Everything I sew has to survive the washer. The lining is a nice plaid cotton flannel. The suede is a micro suede so it just might breathe a little. I know some people don't like JoAnns but you have to admit the prices are good. In the clearance section I've found nice silks and rayons and 100% wool. When it's half off we're talkin' $2.50 a yard. That's hard to beat. Well, the real reason I like JoAnns is the 3 mile proximity to my house. Too close considering how much I love fabric.

Here's the el cheapo pattern I used but drafted a new patch pocket to fit between the seams. (Butterick 4902) I didn't try it out, but the inseam pocket seems like it would be too close the front of the coat and not a natural place to put one's hand. I also shortened the coat 5" so it's a 3 quarter length. This is what the daughter ordered.

Yes, it was easy to sew and since the lining hangs free there was no need to "bag it". Yup, I'd make it again.