Sew True

Thrifty Towel Makeover

2010-10-26T12:00:00.002-06:00

I needed some hand towels for the downstairs powder room and I found this classic paisley at Ross but only in a bath size towel.

If you've shopped for towels, the hand towels cost nearly as much as the bath size! So, I bought it anyway and cut it into three towels and used my quilting skills to bind the edge in my favorite french ticking stripe.

Yellow Kitty Quilt - Finale

2010-04-16T16:26:00.003-06:00

Generally, I have a vague idea about the end result when I start a new quilt. I've been slacking on quiltmaking for a while so when I saw this quilt along by SewTakeaHike
I jumped right in without giving too much thought as to how I was gonna finish it off.

I used flannel instead of batting and cut the blocks 11" square so I could trim them to 10 1/2". I love the close quilting by using the presser foot as the guide. I rarely sash my quilts because by the time I'm ready to assemble the blocks my mind has wandered off to the next project and it's all about gettin' er done.

So, the baby quilt that started with 12 blocks, grew into 20 and now gets even bigger with sashing. I used some scrap white muslin and since the blocks were already 2 layers, the sashing needed to be the same so I cut flannel strips for the "fill". I was concerned that it might look too busy without the sashing but after looking at Penny's quilt, I could have skipped it. Her quilt is beautiful!

By now, the whole thing is pretty heavy and it's only a lap size and I still have the backing to deal with. As mentioned above, I've already moved on and don't really want to buy yardage so ended up piecing the back.

This seems like a departure from the usual quilt as you go where the backing fabric is quilted into the block thereby eliminating the push-pull-drag of machine quilting in a 9" space between the head and needle of the machine. The traditional method also skips the pin basting step and there's no chance of getting tucks on the back.

I still have loads of scraps to use up and I'll be making more of these fer sure but I'll make the quilt sandwiches with the backing. In the past, I've sewn the blocks together wrong sides facing, pressed the seam open (front side of the quilt) and then stitched down narrow strips or seam binding to cover them up. By machine, I can deal with some wrestling but for larger quilts, sewing them down by hand is much easier even though more time consuming.

Spring Tote Shopping Bag

2010-04-11T12:02:00.003-06:00

I've been using cloth bags for all my shopping for many years now and they hold up surprisingly well. I do get bored with them so I'm always making new ones. What better way to use up scraps, eh?

I used flannel as a foundation and stitched down the strips quilt-as-you-go style. The lining is upcycled from a pink cotton sheet. Orange and green are not favorite colors but those limes are certainly a Tequila inspiration!

Easy Peasy Scrap Quilt as You Go

2010-04-11T11:40:00.003-06:00

The problem with quilting is the inability to discard fabric. This is how I end up with multiple baskets of scraps that are just too precious to throw away. I recently ran across SewTakeaHike's quilt along which is super fun but hardly made a dent in the scrap pile. I'll have to make more for sure!

Right now the blocks are waiting to be assembled. It's a lap size, 2o ten inch blocks. I'm planning on adding a border, probably 3 inches or so.

The Tale of Two Queens

2010-02-04T17:52:00.006-07:00

The older I get the more I enjoy handwork. Maybe I'm not in such a big hurry anymore and I while I love my sewing machines they seem to invoke cursing while hand stitching does not.

The traced queen was done on a light box and a thin line quilting pen. Those faint black lines were from using an iron on my laser copy which didn't work well. My own fault because that process requires more pressure and not on a regular ironing board.

were from using an iron on my laser copy which didn't work well. My own fault because that process requires more pressure and not on a regular ironing board.

The brunette was hand embroidered while the blonde was done by machine. Not better or worse, just different than the hand embroidered version.

This pattern is copyrighted from a book and is not available at French-Knots

Pressing Work

2010-01-25T01:43:00.008-07:00

I've been downloading lovely vintage embroidery patterns through the Hoop Love pool at Flickr for the past year and this is the year I'm finally getting around to scanning my own collection.

You can find them at Hoop Love or at my new website, French-Knots. Eventually, the site will also have free knitting and crochet patterns as well as applique for quilting.

I've been collecting this stuff for years and now it's time to share it with the world.

Poor Little Neglected Blog

2010-01-19T02:03:00.004-07:00

Nah, it can't be nearly 2 years since I've updated this blog. When you first start a blog you're pretty sure nobody is reading it anyway so there's no pressure to write. I can't write a blog without uploading pictures and that's where the problem lies. Sewing the thing up is fun but trying to find adequate lighting, taking the pictures, uploading them to the computer, editing them, etc., takes more time and energy than the stitching.

I will try to do better. You may know that I have an obsession with corsets and corset type tops. When Project Alabama came on the scene I fell in love immediately. They are made from t shirts and don't offer the support or waist cinching capabilities that real corsets do but they are beautiful in their own right. A proper corset with lots of bones also helps with posture and that's exactly what I need. Here's a few experiments in patchwork:

The elastic at the top edge keeps it close to the body so no chance of boobies spilling over.

The boning could be more comfortable but not worse than those pokey underwires in bras. In fact, wearing a corset is quite different than a bra since the breasts are supported by the bones and not being held up by the shoulders.

I have lots of scraps to use up and I think quilting the panels will make it soft and more comfy.

McCreamy

2008-02-26T15:28:00.003-07:00

Coffee? Tea? Ice cream? This pallete is delicious like a Starbucks latte.

Rockin' Rayon

2008-02-25T18:07:00.003-07:00

The great thing about thrifting is ya never know what you'll find. Yeah, I'm a hunter gatherer and judging by the amount of stuff in my basement, I'd better stop gathering real soon.

These are the sweetest cones of rayon embroidery thread, some still in the wrapper. 3 bucks a pop, woo hoo!

Then the Top

2007-09-20T15:20:00.002-06:00

While I was working on the jacket I happened to notice this remnant carelessly tossed near my work table. I really thought it was kinda ugly when I bought it but hey, it was cheap chiffon and it has randomly placed sequins for a little sparkle. Next to the jacket, it's a perfect match! This is made from Butterick 3385, probably no longer in print. I made a version for myself a couple years ago and it didn't fit right in the boobs so I'm hoping it will fit Vale better as she's got better (and younger!) proportions than mom.

FYI: My other daughter is Nicci so my label is NicciVale. Both girls don't sew, are not into fashion like I am but every time I sew a label into a garment, it's love energy.

Dad is still hanging out in our guest room and am currently looking for an apartment for him. Of course, I love him dearly but I need my house back. A girl has to have her space.

Then the Skirt

2007-09-20T15:14:00.001-06:00

I love this plum denim! In fact, I just bought 2 more yards to make some trousers. I might "need" more just because it sews up so nicely.

First Came the Jacket

2007-09-20T14:48:00.001-06:00

Yes, I have a thing for jackets. I can't resist buying them for 99 cents and I can play with new techniques without having to put any work into the construction. At this price, who cares if I screw it up? This tweedy number wasn't anything special considering it was an Apt 9 brand from Kohls and originally had a detachable faux fur collar that wasn't on the jacket when I found it at thrift. The back had to be taken in as it was 18" across and my girl is 15" (including ease) so I started at the shoulders and tapered a dart into a V, creating a pleat below the waist.

Before work began I found this fantastic matching plum denim at JoAnns on clearance for $4 for the skirt and wanted to incorporate this fabric into the jacket.

I played with ways to attach it to the sleeves to make them longer (a common alteration for the long-arm people) and ended up unpicking the lining and attaching the denim to the lining so it hangs past the sleeve. It worked pretty well and added a thread chain to keep it from twisting.

I had remembered a technique from an older issue of Threads about trimming edges with narrow strips of loosely woven fabric and here I used a 1/2" bias strip and teased the edges with a brush. This worked well so I added 2 rows of strips to the sleeve edges to tie the whole thing together. Also, I added buttons to the sleeve and since they were trimmed in gold, the button on the back bow is also gold. The button on the front was a self-fabic button which I usually find attractive but in this case it was too bland so replaced it with one that provided some contrast.

Slow Vines

2007-08-24T15:54:00.001-06:00

I decided to machine stitch the veins in the leaves simply because I'd used this method on a quilt and liked how it turned out. I was hoping that I could do the vines in the same manner but nooooo, they looked pretty wimpy. So, I'm embroidering them by hand using the split stitch. I usually do this in front of the TV but since I haven't been watching lately, not much progress has been made. Yes, Miz Scattered is working on other projects. I hope to have the Japanese inspired tote up soon.

In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida

2007-08-09T15:26:00.001-06:00

You might be a certain age if you remember the Iron Butterfly. I think In-A-Gadda was their only hit, but had that familiar drug induced sound like The Doors.

This was tucked in with some other vintage stuff from an estate sale, still hooped with the thread and about 90% finished. If I had started it myself I probably would have used variegated thread and still might in those blank spots. I'm thinkin' coral.

My first embroidery piece at age 13 was a peasant top. Of course, I still have those transfers!

Little blackie here was made from a foam stamp dipped in a bleach solution and applied to black fabric.

For now, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with them but I like having elements as a jumping off point for new quilts or wearables. I usually start with a title and make up the rest as I go along.

Pillowcase Applique Tutorial

2007-08-07T14:34:00.000-06:00

I frequently forget about this method even though it's pretty easy and takes just a little more time than fusible applique. I don't like the stiffness with the 2 sided fusible and this gives me a couple of options since at the onset I'm not sure whether I'll be machine or hand sewing.

Here I've used fusible lightweight interfacing. It works especially well when layering appliques and a more permanent placing is desired without having to hold it down with pins.

1. Trace the shapes on the wrong side of the fabric with an ordinary pencil. Place the right side of the fabric to the glue/fusible side of the interfacing. Sew on the pencil line (or close to it!)

2. Cut around the stitching 1/8" away and clip curves if necessary. Carefully cut an opening in the interfacing only.

3. Turn to the right side. A knitting needle is handy for the points. Resist the urge to press them. Remember there is glue on the back and you'll need to apply them to your ground fabric before you get crazy with the iron.

Story Skirt One "Leave Me Alone"

2007-08-07T14:20:00.001-06:00

And so it begins. This is an 8 gore skirt using 2 brown fabrics that were remnants. I started buying remnants when my daughters were babies and 21 years later I'm still buying them. They also came in handy when I started quilting. This doesn't look like much, a bunch of scraps in leaf shapes stuck on a brown skirt. Well, this is only the beginning of the story! I used the pillowcase method of applique because I don't want the stiffness of double sided fusible since I'll be embroidering (by hand) though it. Next step after sewing down the leaves will be vines. Lots of 'em. Think Lord of the Rings.

The leaves are tears just welling under the surface but too angry? pent-up? to release. I rarely cry and too many times just want to be left alone.

Anniversary Card, Old School

2007-08-07T13:48:00.001-06:00

It's amazing what can be done with some magazines and a glue stick. I sometimes tear the images so even scissors aren't necessary. I started doing collage about 5 years ago just because it's soo much fun and quick. Imagine the anticipation of the recipient when they open their mailbox. This envelope says personal and could not be mistaken for a lousy bill.

Here's the inside of the card. The mushy stuff is on the back!

Don is a sentimental kinda guy and keeps all the cards I give him. Years from now, I know he'll enjoy looking at them because they are love letters which, by the way. seems to be a lost art. Don't get me wrong, I love email as much as you do BUT there is nothing like a hand made card with big love energy that can be physically touched.

Back to the Future

2007-08-06T00:11:00.001-06:00

Ever have those days where you don't feel quite like yourself? I've been trying to re-connect the dots for the last 3 years and after reading this woman's blog I'm inspired to tell my own story in cloth. Well, I used to do that years ago but didn't realize it!

Instead of quilts, I'm telling my story in skirts. Less surface area to cover and hey, I like the fact they allow the wearer to make a public statement. Less blanket, more fashionista.

Anyway, I dug this one up from the archives. It's an old denim skirt embellished with embroidery and traveled with the Sulky challenge some years back. It's entitled "Home of the Brave" because we all know America was home to the Native American Indian braves. Uh, we used to be "land of the free" but that doesn't seem to apply in these troubled times.

All the embroidery is done on the machine, free motion style.

Garden Salad Fibonacci Poncho

2007-07-31T14:57:00.001-06:00

Cheers to the organic life! Ok, so it does look hippy but hey DD likes it. Well, she likes AnYthInG green and since she's a math major I used the Fibonacci sequence of 8, 5, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8.

Yes, I have way too much yarn. I like it that way.

Ralph Gets a 2nd Chance

2007-07-28T16:59:00.001-06:00

I love tailored jackets but when I can buy this creme raw silk designer model for 99 cents at the thrift store it hardly seems worth my time to labor over a jacket from scratch.

This is the "before" picture after being tossed in the washer with a capful of shampoo. Yes, I know the tag said "dry clean only" but I don't like the chemicals in that process so I stick to soap and water.

The buttons are nothing special but I left them on and well, it's lacking in details. The extra watch pocket doesn't really add much. In fact all the pockets were still sewed shut so I doubt the original owner wore it much.

This is a size 6 petite and while the sleeves are way too short, the jacket body is a normal length.

I needed to add 4" to the sleeves because DD has long arms like me. I'm always buying silly doilies. I don't know why exactly because I rarely use them but the crocheted squares seemed just right. They needed to be a litte wider so I blocked them with steam before whip stitching them together. For balance, I hand stitched one to each shoulder creating the appearance of a yoke. I wanted a really soft ribbon to weave through the top edge of the crochet and found this Moda Dea ribbon yarn to be nice match.

A little hand stitching with embroidery floss around the front edge and lapel pulls it all together.

Garden Delight Poncho

2007-07-18T14:45:00.001-06:00

Ok, I'm on a roll here. 3 posts in one day! Everybody likes salad, right? But do you like to wear it? We'll see. This is the first side of the poncho that I'm knitting for my daughter. She likes green and while the red may look like tomatoes it's more of a rust. The loom is fantastic if you like to work with highly textured yarns in the same project. The gauge seems to remain constant regardless of weight and homespun and eyelash are MUCH easier to work with on the loom. I've tried eyelash on straight needles and gave up after 3 rows.

Yes, this was filmed on my granite countertop courtesy of dear husband (Mr. computer geek) who works for a countertop/flooring company.

Later this evening a real salad will be prepared on this top!

Oh, I might also mention this is knitted in a Fibonacci sequence. The daughter is a math whiz.

You Might Be Irish if.....

2007-07-18T14:26:00.001-06:00

you are wowed by this crocheted coat.

Do you know Dover? They publish really cool books for artists and craftspeople. I found this beauty at the thrift store. It might still be in print.

For a contempory look at how Irish crochet, check out this Japanese blog
http://ammit.exblog.jp/ by a woman who really knows her stuff. Scroll down to the vest!

Oh yeah, my grandmother was O'Conner. I really am part Irish.

Bitten: The Age of Vampires Brought to You by Elle

2007-07-18T13:35:00.001-06:00

Did I mention that I'm a magazine junkie? No, not The Enquirer but fashion magazines. In another month I'll be in fashion heaven when the monster September Autumn 2007 issues hit the stands. Anyway, the August issue of Elle arrived yesterday and Sarah Jessica Parker graces the cover along with the ballyhoo of her new cheapo line of clothing called Bitten. Here is a not-so-lovely acrylic 20 dollar cardigan (page 60) shown over a $995 D&G silk top. Ok, I'm all for pairing moderately priced basics with pricey designer gear but in this case the cardi looks worse than what WalMart offers. Dolce and Gabanna surely must be offended.

The Bitten line was a hot topic over at the On the Runway blog simply because we really don't need more of the same basic crapola that is already served off the backs of foreign labor. Please, make it stop by choosing garments made by your friendly local designer. The designer and sewers make a fair wage, you have something fabulous to wear (again and again) and you didn't support any slaves or a blood sucking CEO.

I'm sure Ms. SJP is a nice person and since the movie deal of Sex and the City is looming off in the future and probably hasn't realized any profit from her new perfume Covet, maybe her finances are a little tight. Shame on Elle for labeling her as fashion designer and shame on SJP for believing that a $10 handbag retailed through Steve and Barry's leaves much for the garment worker after the cost of the material, marketing, transportation across the high seas and most importantly, the cost of using the "designer's" name. I used to be someone who got excited over bargain clothing until I realized that it is seriously flawed when Lagerfeld owns multiple mansions, Valentino throws 10 million dollar anniversary bashes while a woman in Pakistan sleeps on a dirt floor and works 20 hours a day. Oh, and don't forget where the clothing ends up, after you've worn it a few times and it's not worth keeping. When it doesn't sell in the thrift stores, it goes to Africa where the 2nd hand clothing business displaces their own garment industry. Ok, some of it goes straight to the landfill because it wasn't regarded as valuable in the first place.

--End of Rant--

Knifty Knitting

2007-07-14T18:53:00.001-06:00

Hey, knitting is just making your own fabric and when I don't feel especially creative sewing-wise then I knit. This is a poncho for my sister done on the yellow knifty loom. Yeah, I coulda used straight needles but the loom is soooo much easier to use with bulky yarns, especially eyelash.

Baggin' It

2007-07-11T11:49:00.001-06:00

I'm always inspired by contests because it causes me to stretch and well, some people just need deadlines to get things done. Check out the tutorial here: http://www.instructables.com/id/ESOB8OOF3SYP39F/

This shopping/grocery bag is made from 2 pillowcases and uses nearly all the material so there's very little scrap. Yea! I have enough scraps already, thankyouverymuch. All bags must have pockets (there outta be a law) and this baby has 2 outside pockets, perfect for my magazine addiction and brick cheese comsumption. (full fat version)

Happy Birthday to Me!

2007-06-27T11:21:00.001-06:00

Yup, it's MY day. This is what we'll be doing this evening. This was taken a few years ago and I'm wearing my favorite dress even though it's not one I made. It's bias cut with a cowl neckline and oh so flattering.

I Really Do Make Stuff

2007-06-15T15:30:00.001-06:00

I'm on a roll here after being in such a funk for a long time it's good to get back to my machines.

I hope to one day figure out how to format pictures and text correctly without so much cursing.

I love this blue check made from cotton. Very simple but chic.

The ballerina dress (right) was just a little remnant. It has plenty of glitter which doesn't show in the picture.

This reversible dress is Indian cotton madras on one side and a summery cotton print on the other. The madras crinkles nicely after washing like a broomstick skirt. The idea is to wear the white side in summer and when it turns cool, wear the grey side as a jumper, over a t-shirt.

Garage Sale Friday

2007-06-15T15:11:00.001-06:00

I love summer!

1. No snow to shovel

2. Tons of garage sales

Twins for only $50. Height adjustable. If only my form was this size. *sigh*

This old quilt is mighty heavy and it looks like there is a double wedding ring under the fans. It's in ragged condition and hey it was only 2 bucks so I won't feel bad taking it apart. I bought it as a cutter anyway.

I made a commitment this year to not use plastic bags, keeping them out of my house and the landfill so I have to remember to carry tote bags with me at all times. Ok, maybe I shop too much. Anyway, this is a big un and will hold lots of fabric and luckily I got 2 of them for a buck a piece.

Did you know cotton breaks down in the landfill in a matter of months? I'm probably the only one on the block with dryer lint and strips of cotton mulching my tomato plants.

The Fittin' is Easy

2007-06-10T20:49:00.001-06:00

You know why so many people sew children's clothes? Cuz they're easy to fit. No boobs to work around. Just get the circumference right and the length and voila! an easy dress. So, when I get tired of draping the big people I work with the kids.

This is Molly the Manni. She really gets around due to her free pass in Photoshop. She's wearing cotton flannel with adorable cats.

The Pattern Files (Scary)

2007-06-10T20:40:00.002-06:00

Ms. Dress a Day would be proud to know that the middle cabinet of 5 drawers is devoted entirely to patterns of dresses. So they don't get lonely, I've flanked them with Suits/Jackets on the left and Tops/Pants/Skirts on the right.

Did I mention how much I adore New Look Patterns? In the dress category they get their own drawer.

I mean. really, how many different styles can there be? Do I really need this many patterns? Apparently so. Scary.

Dress to Empress

2007-04-07T10:40:00.001-06:00

You are The Empress

Beauty, happiness, pleasure, success, luxury, dissipation.

The Empress is associated with Venus, the feminine planet, so it represents,
beauty, charm, pleasure, luxury, and delight. You may be good at home
decorating, art or anything to do with making things beautiful.

The Empress is a creator, be it creation of life, of romance, of art or business. While the Magician is the primal spark, the idea made real, and the High Priestess is the one who gives the idea a form, the Empress is the womb where it gestates and grows till it is ready to be born. This is why her symbol is Venus, goddess of beautiful things as well as love. Even so, the Empress is more Demeter, goddess of abundance, then sensual Venus. She is the giver of Earthly gifts, yet at the same time, she can, in anger withhold, as Demeter did when her daughter, Persephone, was kidnapped. In fury and grief, she kept the Earth barren till her child was returned to her.

What Tarot Card are You?
Take the Test to Find Out.

Book Deal for Fashionistas

2007-01-16T10:02:00.001-07:00

If you collect books on fashion this is a MUST HAVE. I stumbled across this on the bargain rack at Barnes and Noble for a mere $19.98. This sells for nearly $60 used on Amazon.com. So, get yerself over to B&N and drop a 20 for over 700 pages of glorious fashion with up close and personal photography. Ah, the details!

The Empire Comes Back

2007-01-09T18:06:00.001-07:00

Recently I ordered this vintage mail order pattern online. Cost: $6.50. I probably wouldn't make it floor length since a knee length dress has more wearability but I liked the idea of holding in the fullness of the dress with ties. I plan to use a drawstring under the bustline instead of elastic. Apparently Laura Ashley had the same idea as I found this McCalls pattern today on sale for 99 cents. In fashion, nothing is really new!

Let It Snow.......NOT

2006-12-22T11:08:00.001-07:00

I hate snow. I think you should be able to just hop in the car and drive somewhere without having to shovel 2 feet of snow or having to worrry about slippin' and slidin' on the ice. It's just not natural. All the time I'm sewing I'm thinking about when I'll be able to get out. No, I'm not finished with my Christmas shopping. This is my husband's Jeep. Apparantly snow has a mind of it's own, molding itself into a dome shape.

By looking at my neighbor's truck you can see how high the snow is in the street. This is not good.

Suit Up

2006-12-05T10:40:00.001-07:00

I know you've done it. There was a misalignment of the planets and you bought some disgusting fabric. Years later you discover this fabric and while you really want to throw it out, your frugal and environmentally correct self won't allow it. Such is the case with The Suit. In the picture, it looks OK but really it's a cheesy poly knit. This is a test to check the fit and once that is accomplished I hope to unload it to a charity that gives business clothes to women starting new jobs. The only thing outstanding about this suit is the velvet collar that has free motion quilting because yours truly forgot the important step of interfacing. The skirt is Simplicity 4885 and the jacket is McCalls 5058. Next time I'll add a back seam to the skirt and insert the zipper there instead of the side. Also, I think the back seam is slimming even though The Girl is thin already and doesn't need slimming features.
Do those sleeves look way too long? Not for the long armed women in this family! Yep, long legs too. No hate mail, please.

This is Why I Needed A Fly

2006-11-30T18:38:00.001-07:00

This is a test pair for dear daughter. I won't know if they fit until the weekend and then I can whip up some in her favorite pinstripe. Normally she's a jean and t-shirt gal but got a gig workin' in an attorney's office so she needs nice clothes. Did the fly work out as planned? Oh yes! I used a 7" zipper so the pull extended off the top edge and didn't even need a zipper foot.

Most pants patterns are too baggy and these 2 patterns were no exception when I compared her measurements. I used the crotch curve from the Stretch and Sew (circa 1974) and the flare from the 1968 Bell Bottoms Simplicity pattern. However, the rise would still be too high to suit her so I lowered the front with a contour. The back is also lowered but much higher than the front. The waistband is straight and cut one inch shorter and eased on. I closed up what was left of the darts before cutting the pants.

Come Fly With Me: Fly Front Zipper Tutorial

2006-11-29T17:10:00.001-07:00

I have no intention of sewing my own jeans but I'd like to duplicate the fit. I sacrificed this old pair of thrift store jeans for the tutorial and this technique seems to be "the method" on most dress pants as well. The jeans open on the right and while most women's dress pants open on the left, I'm right handed so I'm sticking with the right opening as shown here. Rather than cut new pieces I'll take this zipper apart and sew it back together.

These old school jeans actually have a waist so if you're making low rise pants your templates would probably be closer to 4" instead of 8" shown here. I've also seen facings that are narrower, about 1 -1/2" wide. You can still use a 7" zipper, leaving the excess at the top edge. Also, you could omit the left facing and make it an extension on the pants pattern. This is the norm in home sewing patterns. I think it's easier to cut and sew a small unit and seam it using the mark on my machine's needleplate rather than having to mark a line on the extension to key the zipper.

Here's the parts with the zipper already sewn to the left facing. Note the edge on the right pants piece has been serged all the way and the left piece only partially serged. The right underlap has been folded wrong sides together and serged and the left facing serged only on the curved side. These pieces are NOT interfaced and most of my trousers aren't either. The few that do, have light interfacing, barely there. The seam allowance is 1/2".

The zipper is placed face down on the left facing. The right edge of the tape is 1/2" from the raw edge and the tape is secured on the left side of the teeth with 2 rows of stitching. 2 rows seem to be standard even in dress pants.

With right sides together sew the left facing to the left front in a 1/2" seam. Be sure and keep the tape free so it doesn't get caught in the seam.

Front View

Turn the facing to the back so the zipper is right side up. Align the edge of the zipper tape with the serged edge of the right underlap, right side to wrong side of zipper. Just move it over and set it on top!

Fold the edge under 3/8" on the right front pants piece and place it on the zipper close to the teeth and topstitch. You'll be stitching through 3 layers.....the underlap, the zipper and the pants.

Here's a closer view of the topstitching that secures the zipper on the right side. When the last inch is sewn it will match perfectly as the top edge was used in the alignment.

Sew the crotch seam ending about 1/2" past where the fly begins. The raw edge part of the seam will be hidden after you topstitch.

Now the topstitching and you're done! Be sure and keep the underlap free. There's a seam at the front edge and if you wanted that topstitiched it needed to be done before you sewed the crotch seam. Make a template from some sticky paper like freezer paper that can be ironed on temporarily or from painter's wide masking tape. Also, bartack the underlap and the facing together near the bottom edge of the fly.

Blondes Definitely Have More Fun

2006-11-28T15:24:00.001-07:00

Baby, It's Cold Outside

2006-11-28T14:55:00.001-07:00

I've never made a coat before but it's like making a jacket, only longer. It's actually black poly suede lightened up with photo retouch. I actually don't like polyester but I hate dry cleaning more. Everything I sew has to survive the washer. The lining is a nice plaid cotton flannel. The suede is a micro suede so it just might breathe a little. I know some people don't like JoAnns but you have to admit the prices are good. In the clearance section I've found nice silks and rayons and 100% wool. When it's half off we're talkin' $2.50 a yard. That's hard to beat. Well, the real reason I like JoAnns is the 3 mile proximity to my house. Too close considering how much I love fabric.

Here's the el cheapo pattern I used but drafted a new patch pocket to fit between the seams. (Butterick 4902) I didn't try it out, but the inseam pocket seems like it would be too close the front of the coat and not a natural place to put one's hand. I also shortened the coat 5" so it's a 3 quarter length. This is what the daughter ordered.

Yes, it was easy to sew and since the lining hangs free there was no need to "bag it". Yup, I'd make it again.